The weather calming down some permitted us to few days later to pull out again for a hunt. This proved to be our lucky day, as we came in about 11 a. m. with our otter, he was a medium size and very beautiful measuring about 5 ft.6 inches in length with the most hansome [handsome] fur I ever saw, the fur was about 1 ¼ to 1 ½ inches deep and grew so compacted that the skin was invisible even when the fur was parted for the purpose. With the hand smoothing it in any direction it would follow and lay as stroked, the ends were jet black but near the hide it was of a silkey [silky] gray color and soft as cotton to the touch.

It now required some skill and experience to dress or cure it.

Everyone was quite willing in taking a hand at this work. The carcass was first hung up by the flippers, head downward and the process of taking off the skin was new and interesting to me. When it finally lay on the grounds it had not been touched with a knife except to start the hide which was done by splitting the soles of the flippers and pulling the hide over the body simply turning him wrong side out; the bullet hole which had killed him was now sewed up with silk thread while the fur was on the inner side.

The hide now was put upon a stretcher and stretched taut until every point of the skin was tight, the work began now of a scraping nature cleaning off every particle of blubber and fat until the hide became like glassy rawhide, this was then treated with a rubbing and drying process without the aide of the sun and in fact all of the entire job was done in the shade. The washing with water and rubbing continued for prehaps [perhaps] 2 or 3 days until the skin was perfectly dry. Then it was returned with the fur out and neatly packed being now ready for market netting us $400.00.


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About 4 miles north of camp was situated the Pt. Sur light house, its unique location made it a very interesting place to visit.

The approach to the light was over a low stretch of sand so low that at extreme high tide the light house and keepers dwellings were cut off from the main land, leaving them on an island. This island consisted of an immense rock, probably covering 20 acres about 300 ft. high and very steep, in fact you had to mount to the light by means of a flight of stairs, 336 steps without a landing making it an impossible climb for a great many visitors. All supplies used by the lighthouse attendants were hoisted up from the sand below by a cable run by a large hoisting engine located at the top. The light was placed at the opposite side of the rock from the keepers dwellings, a distance of some 250 yds. A trail lead from the dwellings to the light, well guarded by hand railings and fence.

Approaching the light house from along this trail only the top of the tower could be seen and then only when you was [were] with a few hundred feet of it.

The trail ended in a foot bridge which lead [led] directly into the light chamber, the highest point in a light house tower, this curious arrangement was caused by the height of the rock on which the tower was built. This side of the rock was about 300 ft. from the water and almost perpendicular. The foundation for the tower was cut down and leveled out of solid rock, bringing the tip of the tower almost on a level with the bank above; there was no necessity of erecting the customary funnel shaped high tower as the rock gave sufficient height, if not too high as was proven many times while I was there for I have heard the fog-signal sounding for hours while we were near the waters levels enjoying a beautiful clear day, but at the light house they were developed [enveloped] in a blanket of fog which only hovered around the top of the rock causing the officers in charge there to believe a fog hung over the sea from many miles around. The bridge connecting the end of the trail with the light chambers was about 18 ft. long and heavily guarded by iron hand rails about about 5 feet high. Done for the purpose we were told protecting the men while changing shifts at night in stormy weather as the wind at this point on the coast blows harder than any point between British Columbia and Mexico. The men have been known to crawl on their hands and knees in __ order to save themselves from being blown off while crossing into the Watch Tower.

The dwellings were built of beautiful brown sandstone and securely anchored being, built so strong and perfect that in the most hurricane southeasterly storm once in side the storm blew unnoticed or felt. I never had or have been within a building that was cleaner or most neat and sanitary than all of these buildings were including engine and oil rooms.

Cleanliness was stamped everywhere.


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The tan bark industry was being carried on here quite extensively.

The bark was obtained far up the river and was being hauled down to the landing and corded in great piles waiting the arrival of a schooner which was especially chartered for this trade. The mountains were being devastated of their beautiful coat of mature evergreen oak to satisfied [satisfy] the craving of man for society’s sake. It was heartrendering and awful to look upon these beautiful young oaks being stripped of their covering leaving the forest resembling a cemetery. Great paths cut crisscross up and down in fact running in all manners of ways to accommodate the sleds and wagons used in soaking out the bark. Hillsides seemed to be mutilated more that the level ground. I suppose because it was noticeable to the eye being set off at a much better advantage than the level as it was hard to see over any space on the level, but looking at the hillside one got a very large scope of territory to gage at.

The process of tanning the bark was done by letting the tree stand and cutting a ring around it near the ground and another as far up as the limbs would allow or that is until the limbs became too small and thick there from ring to ring was chopped a slit and these with a flat bar, the bark was peeled off. The tree leftt standing to die. Thousands and thousands of these white ghostly sentinels dotted the mountain region of the upper Sur river.

No attempt is made at utilizing the wood only the bark is used. Small trees up to 6 in. in diameter are peeled, standing larger ones are cut down and left to rot and become fodder for forest fires. Conservation was badly needed here and wherever this industry is prevalent the U.S. Government should look well to the slaughter that is being made in our young timber.

While we were camped at this place a schooner swung into bay and anchored about 200 yds outside the line of breakers, it’s purpose was for taking off a ship load of tan bark. The bark was corded on a headland from which a larger crane was suspended and used for lowering large loads of bark onto a lighter. These lighters were strung onto an endless cable operated from an engine on the schooner while the loaded lighter were [was] being towed out to the ship an empty one was coming ashore. I obtained a few days labor at this work, also put in two days about ship running a hoist, in fact I worked with the ship until it was loaded and made ready for sea.

While the work was heavy and had to be rushed-while the weather was so the lighter could run, we nevertheless was [were] fed. There was [were] 5 meals a day, and good food and all man would eat. The AM. Was always pleasant with hardly a ripple of wind, but the P.M. Brought a northwester which increased until sunset.

I don’t think I ever worked at a more disagreeable job than handling this bark ashore when the wind blew [was blowing]. When the bark is peeled and starts to dry it curls until it is at least one l/2 the original size and the edges are like so many sharp knives cutting whatever it comes in contact with, but after continual handling these sharp edges are broken off and it can be handled with safety, but new at the first moving of it we had the butt of this cruel work. Almost putting us out of commission as our hands were simply cut in in hundred of places, the torture we stood, but the dust nearly put the work on a striking basis.

There arises from this bark, when dry and handled in the wind, a powdered barkdust containing tannic acid. Our eyes became almost blinded with this firey acid a tormenting and continuous smarting of fire which did not leave us for many days after the last of the bark was loaded.


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In connection with our experience with tanbark there happened an instance which was partly verified by the proof being found washed up by the waves several days after the ships departure – News reached us on the 3^rd or 4^th day after seeing the schooner put to sea that she had ran afoul of one of a school of whales; by the way I should mention that after filling the whole of the boat we loaded in every spare space on deck as much as 80 cords on a side and all of 8 ft. high securely lashed. When the schooner ran into the whale it was reported to us that the whale left 500 lbs. Of himself clinging to the anchor. The force of the blow careened the schooner almost to a dipping angle causing the lashing to part and the port side lost her load of bark, then on righting again, the opposite side being the heaviest causing another dip of the boat and she lost her larboard load saving the schooner, but with the loss of a deck load of bark which came ashore for many many miles down the coast several days later. I vouch for, but the cause of the accident. I– only give it as it was given to me.

During a severe wind storm for several days we were compelled to stay near the camp except an occasional stroll up the beach-more for passtime [pastime] than pleasure during this weather. It was on one of these strolls, while the wind was blowing a gale and at a point where the kelp grew almost up to the shore that an otter was seen about 150 yds.

From shore driven in shore by the high sea and torn kelp outside. He did not see us, which caused his death, for a lucky shot brought him down, but as he would float he was save [safe] enough, still he lay where he was shot and no chance for us to get to him. Waiting depending on the wind and current to arive [arrive] the carcass ashore was monotonous, but it was all that could be done unless the wind lay, which was doubtful. After 3 or 4 hours waiting it was noticed that he was slowing [slowly] drifting toward shore and just before dark he was so near that one of the boys volunteered to swim out to him which he did after many words of advise and caution.

He succeeded in finally getting ashore amid great rejoicing as it had been many weeks since we had the slightest chance for a hunt outside.


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There was now a move on foot by someone who was ready to break camp and turn homeward, but the weather began to moderate and the chance was favorable for a chase and the murmurings of the party for a move was disregarded until we at least could secure a few days of good hunting. We were rewarded several days later for our patience, for awakening one morning we found our ideal day awaiting us and we lost only our breakfast so eager were we for the sport. 5 A.M. Found us in the field eagerly scanning the Kelp in all directions for the sight of a nose. It must have been l 2 hours later no otter having shown himself when our attention was attracted by a peculiar squeal, now loud, now very faint and weak appearing to be a long way off. It was more like a very young pig squealing that any other noise l can describe, but where it came from or what it was greatly stirred us. Numerous suggestions were offered, but none excepted [accepted] and longingly for our strange willowisp [will-o-the-wisp] when I suddently [suddenly] within 10 feet of our boat an otter arose laying on l her back with her young in her arms. The moment she appeared above the surface of the water the young one -gave- uttered this perculiar [peculiar] cry we were chasing, the cry was smoothered [smothered] almost instantly by the mother diving. We gave chase and it lasted nearly an hour the mother growing tired and closely pressed as the cry of their young gave us the advantage over her and so closely did we press her that in order to save herself she finally dove and when she next appeared what seemed to us a dive of a longer duration she was along, we only saw her this one time, she had escaped us by drowning her young.

Our good weather allowed us several days hunting, but while we saw upwards of 100 otters, we failed to get anymore. It was now about the middle of September and another blow threatening, we voted to pull for the south. As soon as it was decided that we were to go, everybody became anxious to get away for home. Preparations now was [were] under way in earnest, good feeling and cheer was [were] uppermost in the minds and actions of all. The loading was completed before dark the evening before our departure, only the bedding and cooking utensils remained to be loaded next morning.


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