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The Cruise 11

But to return to the day of our leaving Arroya Grande after rowing probably 2 hours and being about 6 miles off shore we encountered a very slight breeze which had sprung up from the southwest. As soon as it was blowing strong enough, we put up sail and enjoyed several hours of rest and some delightful sport. We rounded <C>ooper’s point about 2 o’clock in the P.M. And put into the Big Sur bay with much relief after a pull and sail of 22 miles. We rode the breakers into the mouth of the river without landing, as the Big Sur is the largest river emptying into the ocean carrying any volume of water <of> between the mouth of the Salinas river and the mouth of the Santa Ynez. We rowed up the river perhaps 100 yards, to a beautiful spot on the west bank of the river under the leeward side of the a bluff probably 40 foot high, which gave us a sheltered spot for our camp. By the way, I should mention now the peculiarity of the locality. I do not hesitate to say that in this place the wind blows continually. I have known it to blow 30 days and nights at the rate of 25 miles per hour with one hour’s intermissions. The banks or bluff under which our camp was pitched was lined with scrub live oaks, and as soon as they had reached the height of the back this continuous wind had stunted their growth to such an extent that they never reach over a few feet above the level, but had spread out on a level with the land, resembling a huge thick leafy blanket and on approaching these trees, they appeared to be a continuation of the land and so thick one was almost attempted to walk out upon this leafy carpet, so compacted was it. The limbs of the upper branches were knotted, <knarled>, and twisted into ten thousand shapes and angles. The fences also showed the terrific force of the wind, they were pickets made of redwood set into ground, and if these fences ran across at right angles to the direction of the wind, they invariably had to be replaced within a few years because of the foot of the pickets begin cut off by small gravel and sand driven against them by the force of the wind.

Our camp was soon made, and to protect it from the wind we was lucky enough to find considerable lumber or rather redwood slabs, which no doubt was used one time for a shanty. These slabs made an excellent wind-brake, altho as a rule the wind did not blow at this point. We took this <coarse> as a precaution and it proved a wise move, as we were surprised some two weeks later but a gust or whirlwind which tore down upon our camp, and demolished it completely. We were at supper at the time. Our daily dished were composed of tin plates, cups, and tin cooking utensils. Our supper had been served and we were sitting cross legged with out plates in out laps, when the wind with almost the force of a cyclone hit us. Plates were wrenched out of our hand and were blown some across the river, others into the river, and as a while they were widely scattered, while pots, buckets, pans and the camp fire, with live coals and ashes were spinning and whirling in every direction. Our bedding and sleeping department …

[ends at page 96 of Oakland School Department form 16, handwritten notes]

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Expeditions of 1895 – Big Sur

BIG SUR EXPEDITION –1895

HENRY HARTWELL RHODES. 1895

Courtesy: Cecil Rhodes

[I have recorded the xerox copies of H. W. Rhodes on my computer disc for safe keeping. This translation was made as near as possible as written with spelling corrected and some punctuation added to make the reading easier. The copies were loaned to me by Virginia (Rhodes) Beard: Franklin Beard, 1985]

[Scan and OCR by Ronald William Rhodes, 2010]

The coast on the Pacific side of North American differs widely in climatic conditions from that of the Atlantic side. The same latitude on the Atlantic coast falls from 15 to 20 degrees lower in temperature than the Pacific. The west side rarely drops to 35% above. This condition is caused by the warm Japan current, which strikes the southern part of Alaska and follows the coast southward to Mexico, where it merges with the Equatorial current and flows westward across the Pacific. The condition of the Pacific coast is balmy and warm throughout the entire year, generating an abundant of Animal life, in the water as well as in the land. Because of this warm condition of the water, is found a specie of seal, found no where else on the globe, while it may be located occasionally in nearby waters, it has been driven there by the relentless search for it, caused by the I demand for it’s fur as it is extremely valuable, and sold at enormously high prices in all the large cities of the world, especially those cities in cold countries. This little animal, is the sea otter. Beautiful glossy black often tipped with silver hair it is as shy as he is beautiful. His average length is about 4 ft.6 in. and weigh about 80 to 100 lbs. They differ from other sea animals of the seal family in their choice of food, for they live exclusively [sic] on mussels clams and sea urchins. Only in the 19th century these, now valuable sea animals, were found even in San Francisco bay, by countless thousands, and were hunted from Alaska to Mexico, by the early Russian seal hunter. The trade first attracted the attention of the Russians in Bering Sea. While hunting the fur seal of [off] the the coast of Alaska they found the native there wearing a much finer fur than they had ever seen, and on bartering for some of these rare skins, found the natives would dispose of them for trinkets of very little value. So the trade in sea otter skins grew until the conquest of California in 1846. As many as 10,000 skins found their way to China Japan and Russia yearly. Sailing vessels from the California coast westward have been known to have found on arriving at their destination that 1/3 of their cargo of skins were rotten owning [owing] to the green state in which they were packed, so eager were they to be the first arrival at the marketing port, but allowing even for this loss, there was a handsome profit for the sealers.

It was without doubt this sea-otter trade, that brought about the Russian settlements on the California coast and which caused such uneasiness among the Spanish Governors in the early days before the Gringo’s came, but much pressure was brought to bear on the Russian commander and after considerable negotiations between the Home Governments the Russians finally disposing of their holdings at Old Fort Ross silently and mysteriously disappeared and from that time, 1840-4, very little hunting was done for many years owning [owing] I suppose to the scarcity of the otter. It seems that the drive on the animal which began in the north drove them southward and bring sorely press along the California coast, they escaped only by turning northward again, which became the great field for fur sealer for many years, in fact up until the law was enacted prohibiting the taking of any fur bearing seal. The fine now on the taking of an otter is $1,000, imagine the enormous benefit that we, as a nation could derive from the fur industry now, if that fine had been imposed 35 or 48 years ago, allowing the increase to accumulate, [accumulate] these many years, instead of letting a greedy unscrupulous non-appreciative group of men almost exterminate this valuable animal from the sea. If only we as a people could or would see the calamity such ruthless slaughter is doing for us with all of natures gifts and fix heavy penalties for breaking the law of conservation, our grand and glorious land of Freedom would stand and flourish until the end.

Large fields of Kelp here and there line the coast near shore, and in this Kelp is the home and breeding place of the otter and being practically unmolested they had increased until they caught the eye of the hunter probably in the late eighties when a few boats put to sea and succeeded in getting from 1 to 3 on a trip. Another factor of great importance to the hunted was the enormous increase in value for otter furs, which, was quoted now all the way from $300-to $550, and an extra fine fur would bring about $800. Now to the boys living along the coast and being good boatman, this sport was tempting, as well as a vacation. I have been here on a former trip with a crew, was invited to spend a summer in this exciting and health restoring cruise, and I excepted [accepted] without a second invitation.

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Download the complete text for Big Sur in one doc.

Big Sur 1

We were to leave in February, the year 1895, at a place named Arroyo La Cruz, situated at the mouth of the river or creek some 15 miles north of the little Sea Port town of San Simeon, Cal

When I reached the camp I found all was ready, they were only waiting for two or three boys to make -up the crew. I being one of them.

The camp was located at the mouth of the creek, in a [?] protected from the sea by a sand bar thrown up by the waves which ran parallel with the beach from bank to bank, this sand bar blocked up the mouth of the creek and the river water found its way to the ocean by sinking into the sand. This sinking or exit for the water was not enough to carry away the usual summer water brought down by the creek from the mountains, consequently this water backed up forming a large pond to the right of the camp ground. (previous year a dry year)

The camp while several feet lower than the sand barrier was probably 6 feet higher than the pond afording [affording] a beautiful spot for summer camping surrounded as it was, by this thick tangle willow grove interlaced with wild blackberry vines outside of the space cleared for camp purposes it was almost impossible to penitrate [penetrate] it. The wind might blow a gale outside, but our camp was as quiet as the inside of a house, warm and dry.

Supplies and all necessary articles for a three months trip had been purchased and stored in camp waiting to be loaded into our boats. Good weather was only lacking to make an attempt to get out. It being the rainy season and a storm threatening, we were caucious [cautious] and hesitating about getting away and it was lucky we were wise enough to heed the storm signs, for only a few days after my arrival, the storm broke with great violance [violence]. But during the few days previous to the coming of the storm we spent in organizing our boat and camp duties.

There were three boats to be manned by seven men. One large boat was decided on to carry 3 men, while the other two being much smaller carried 2 more each. These boats were the ordinary row boat, the largest being about 22 foot long and the other two 10 and 16 respectfully.

The owner of the boats was unanimously elected Captain. His knowledge of the sea, and the plan to be carried out while on a chase entitled him to the position and here I might add, that his authority was never once questioned on the entire trip, lasting four or fine months.

The position of the men being settled satisfactory to all, next came the loading of the boats. It was decided that it would be prudent to assign certain articles of camp luggage to boat so as to guard against an emergency. Each boat carried the belongings of the men manning her and such food as would sustain them for several days if it became necessary, the large boat carried all of the camp fixtures including a large wall tent which we found most comfortable on several occasions, but during the early summer months we discarded it intirely, [entirely] as a matter of fact, we seldom used it during the months of Feb. March and April, sleeping out under the stars unless as l say, during a storm, when it was very much appreciated. Now came the problems of arranging camp duty.

Some of the men were good outdoor cooks while others, though willing enough, had had very little experience and preferred other work if possible, but no other work was likely to occur while in camp, but cooking and such labor that usually is attached to the duties of a cook, so to show that no priviledges [privileges] was enduldged [indulged] in, every man was assigned to his work ashore as much as he was at sea.

It was finally planned that 2 boys would prepare dinner “as it is termed in the country” and supper for 1 week, then two more would assume the same duties for 1 week and so on. This would require 4 men as the rest were detailed, as follows: One fellow who always rose early and suggested it himself for the entire trip prepared breakfast, another for the trip washed and cleaned the camp dishes “which by the way were of the unbreakable kind,” tin dishes, still another boy did all the bread making, being supplied with a large stone jar of yeast, provided for by his mother, his baking days were Mondays and Thursdays unless we were at sea on those days then it was done the first day he had ashore.

His oven was the pioneer-Dutch oven and no better bread is made if made right, than by this method.



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Big Sur 2

The threatheing [threatening] storm was now upon us, but being protected by our tent we felt quite secure. It began to rain about dark and as the southeast wind, which by the way, is our storm wind, had been increasing in violence since early morning was now blowing a gale, all afternoon the sea had been growing wilder and now it was terrific outside and the surf was pounding and roaring like distant thunder.

We had secured everything snug for the night and retired to our tent which was dimly lighted by a lantern hung from the ridge pole of the tent.

Some of the boys were playing cards while others amused themselves with music, as we had with us two violins and a guitar, but our amusements were soon put away as the storm were [was] drowning our voices, we soon retired for the night, but it was many hours before we fell asleep.

On awakening next morning, the storm was still with us and raining even with greater force than the evening before. It continued to rain steadily for 3 days and it became almost impossible to cook, as our wood supply became so thoroughly soaked that to build a fire was nearly out of the question, what we did succeed in making, was built within the tent and while we were using it to cook by, wet wood was laid around it to dry, what it would, otherwise it would have been impossible to have had a fire by any means. Our tent was a sight to behold, smoke and ashes had ruined what was ruinable and eyes was [were] all but out, as we could only dodge out of the tent for a moment to get a breath when we was [were] forced back again by the rain, so a fire was only lighted once a day to make a pot of coffee and roast a piece of venison which one of the boys had brought in the day the storm hit us. I do not think l even put a more disagreeable time than I did those three days.

Late in the afternoon of the third day it stopped raining at intervals and we took advantage of these breathing spells to run over the stretch of sand and have a look at the ocean. It was while returning from one of these trips that we out of curiosity followed the pond shore, and it was lucky we did for our reaching the lake or pond, we found it was 3 times its natural size and still rising fast. Why we had not looked at the river side of our camp earlier in the day, I know not and it bringing the only source of danger that was likely to cause us trouble, and then to overlook it until it was upon us, with open jaws. “But such is boys stupidity.” It is just such occurrences that puts mind and forethought into boys to draw out the making of men and to teach them to overlook nothing.

In life’s successful road, the one main feature is caution and I never knew how much the word meant until I took this wonderful trip.


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Big Sur 3

We could not reach camp this way as we usually did, the water had rose [risen] until it had penetrated until the willow thicket, we never knew how far,or how deep, so we retraced our steps and reached camp the way we had gone out. The camp stood about 100 feet from the creek bank and our first act was to examine the river. We found it within a foot or two of the point of overflowing and if it should rise enough to run over, our camp was doomed. Here was a dilemma. In all probabilities the river would rise higher before morning and dark now approaching. There was no time to reach any ranch-house for help; the nearest house being 3 or 4 miles distance. A hurried up consultation was held, and on the advise of those who knew the situation best, it was decided to take the chance of the river breaking through into the sea before it reached our camp.

Coffee was made and a cold lunch eaten, and by the light of our lantern we piled everything that would be damaged by water upon our bunks, which stood about 2 feet above the ground. It was our idea, to stand guard all night and by morning if there was no change in our situation to go for help to move our stock of provisions until the storm was over.

Our last look at the river, was not encouraging, for it was still rising, and we could see a dark bank of clouds hanging low near the head of the river and our decision was, that it was raining heavily in the mountains, such being the case our camp was very much in danger.

I suppose it must have been near midnight, the rain pouring again where our Captain called our attention to what we were all most interested in. “The River,” and sure enough; from under the riverside of our tent, we saw the glistening oozing, silent approach of the river, slowly but surely creeping in upon us. It was midnight and the storm raging furiously and we seven boys many miles from any inhabitant, being gradually surrounded by a steady it rising river. While it was as yet not dangerous, it was a very uncomfortable position. Only an experience so far. But if something was not done soon, we knew that the jig was up, and we would have to abandon our camp before the water got to too deep.

Many suggestions was [were] made, but none that seemed practical.

Finally our captain exclaimed, “Say boys she ought to be almost ready to brake [break] over, I don’t see for the life of me, why it hasn’t done it before now. I noticed when we were last on the beach this evening that it only backed a few feet further to rise before it would break through. I wonder what is holding her this long.”

“Why l know,” said Ed. “since the river has overrun her banks here she has found double the room to spread in, so naturally she will rise slow at the mouth.” Ed’s conclusions we at once saw was logical, but not consoling, for it meant only one thing now to do, beat it while we could.

The idea of tramping head on into a storm for 5 miles the night as dark as Egypt was not a pleasant undertaking.

We were dressed for the start when someone, I suppose for something to say, proposed for all of us to run for the mouth on our way out and see how high the river actually was. His idea grew and in a few minutes we were all grouping our way over the sand dunes or bar towards the river’s mouth. Will spoke to me on our way out to know if I thought it would be of any use to bring the shovel for if the river was almost breaking we might yet save our supplies by helping the river through. I said I would go back and get it,which I did, he accompanying me. The shovel was found and we started again for the beach.


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Big Sur 4

On arriving at the beach we found the river would have to rise 3 feet or more before it could possible break over into the sea, and that 3 foot rise meant the loss of our intire [entire] outfit. If it only was light enough we could undertake to cut the river through, but in a blinding storm and dead of night, with the darkness so intense that it was impossible to see scarcely one’s hand before him, it looked like an almost useless undertaking, still it was a chance and we decided to try it. We knew that in ordinary weather that the river hugged the north bank and if we was [were] lucky enough to strike the main channel it would drain the river from the over flowed bottom where it was now fast covering.

So placing the men to the best advantage we began a task of digging a channel about 3 feet deep and 60 feet long, while it was easy digging, it was hard work to keep up the channel open as the sand would cave into our ditch almost fast as we would dig it out, but as we began to near the middle of the bar and success look certain we worked like [hounds?] one behind the another until all of us was wet with perspiration as well as soaked with rain. Two hours and fifteen minutes had now elasped [sic] and we had only a few feet more to go when we found we were too high with our channel by at least 18 inches.

This was on account of the inky blackness of the night which made it very uncertain to calculate with any accuracy. Our work had to be done over, or abandoned, and the latter we felt had cost us to dearly to let go now. So we turned back and began again, but our spirits soon caught the excitement of the night and we renewed our efforts and by so doing in ¾ of an hour we were at the lakes edge, ready to turn it into the channel.

The rain had ceased some, but the wind and clouds were scuddy [scudding] past at a lively rate and we were anxious to get our task over before it began raining again, so the Captain yelled, “all out boys and look well to your footing, for where the river gets under headway the sand will melt away into the flood with great rapidity and if one of you should be caught by the caving sand bank, its good night for you.”

At this he hope it was through at first, and barely would run, but with a little coaxing here and there, he finally got it through and gradually the river began to eat her way into the sand, minutes passed and the river grew, small blocks of sand and would slip and fall into the channel at first, to be quickly eaten up by the water, then larger chunks, would slip in until probably 20 minutes had passed we were wondering why our channel did not grow wider, but it seems the river was boring out the ditch at the bottom and at the same time undermining the banks, for suddenly with a great roar and splash the bank broke nearly under our feet and almost caught two of us in it’s downward plunge. It was possibly 5 minutes until the channel was 50 feet wide and roaring by with a roar that could be heard above the noise of the surf which was only 50 yards away.


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